Building a House on the Sunshine Coast? Lock In These Lighting & Electrical Decisions Before Frame Stage
Most lighting regrets in new Sunshine Coast homes come from decisions made too late. By the time the frame is up, the recesses for LED strip, the cabling for smart controls and the conduits out to the garden are either in the walls or they aren't. Lock in your lighting plan, control system and outdoor runs before electrical rough-in, and everything after gets cheaper and easier.
Why lighting decisions have to come early
When you sign a building contract, the electrical allowance is usually priced around a standard package: a set number of downlights, switches, power points and an outside light or two. That's fine for a basic home. It isn't enough for the kind of lighting people now expect in a custom or architect-designed build on the Coast.
Architectural lighting is built into the house, not stuck onto it. A glowing ceiling cove needs a step framed into the ceiling. LED strip under a floating vanity needs a routed channel in the joinery and a cable path through the wall. A wired smart lighting system needs its own data cable to every keypad. Garden uplights need conduit laid before the landscaper arrives.
All of those are cheap to include at the right stage and expensive to add later. Once plasterboard is up, most changes mean cutting, patching, repainting and paying two or three trades to come back.
The build timeline, and what to decide at each stage
Here's how lighting and electrical decisions line up with a typical Queensland build.
| Build stage | Lighting and electrical decisions | Who's involved | Cost of changing later |
|---|---|---|---|
| Design | Lighting concept, ceiling heights and steps, feature walls, where joinery goes | Architect or designer, lighting electrician | Low |
| Contract | Electrical allowance, provisional sums, whether you can bring your own electrician | You, builder | Low |
| Slab | Conduits under the slab for islands, floor boxes and outdoor runs | Builder, electrician, plumber | High once poured |
| Frame | Ceiling recesses, bulkheads, coves, stair recesses, blocking for heavy pendants | Builder, carpenter, electrician | Medium |
| Rough-in | Cable runs, switch and keypad positions, driver locations, smart control cabling | Electrician | Medium |
| Lock-up and plaster | Plaster-in profiles and trimless downlights set during plastering | Plasterer, electrician | High |
| Fit-off | Fittings, LED strip, drivers, programming scenes | Electrician | Low for fittings, high for positions |
| Handover | Commissioning, adjusting light levels after dark | Electrician, you | Low |
The pattern is simple: positions and recesses are decided early; the fittings themselves can be chosen later.
Decisions before you sign the building contract
Check the electrical allowance and inclusions
Ask your builder exactly what the electrical allowance covers. Look for the number of downlights and power points, the type of switches, and whether anything outdoors is included. If lighting is listed as a PC item (prime cost) or provisional sum, find out what it's based on. A provisional sum priced for basic downlights won't stretch to recessed LED strip, pendants and dimming, and the difference arrives later as a variation.
Can you bring your own electrician or lighting designer?
Many custom builders will let you use your own electrician for lighting, or at least bring in a lighting designer, if it's agreed before you sign. It might be written as a separate trade, a variation, or a provisional sum that your chosen electrician works within. Volume builders usually don't allow it.
If you do, get the details in writing: who does rough-in and fit-off, who coordinates with the plasterer and cabinetmaker, and who's responsible for warranty on the electrical work.
Decisions before frame stage
A lighting plan for the whole house
A lighting plan shows every fitting, every run of LED strip and every switch on your floor plan, with notes on dimming, scenes and colour temperature. It's the document that lets your builder, carpenter, plasterer and cabinetmaker all build the right things in the right places. It's the core of our luxury home lighting design service, and we work the same way alongside builders through our lighting for builders and renovators.
Recesses for LED strip
Decide now where you want hidden light: ceiling coves and bulkheads, shadow lines where walls meet ceilings, stair treads, bedheads, vanities, kitchen joinery and outdoor steps. Each needs a recess, a step or a routed channel, and each needs a driver location you can reach later. Our hidden and recessed LED lighting work always starts at this stage.
Smart control: wired or wireless
If you're considering a wired lighting control system such as C-Bus, KNX or DALI, the decision has to be made before rough-in, because it needs its own cabling from every keypad and sensor back to the switchboard. Wireless smart switches are more forgiving and can be added later, but they still work best when the switchboard, neutral wiring and network are planned for them. See our smart lighting and automation service for how we approach it.
Outdoor, pool and garden conduits
If there's any chance you'll want garden uplights, path lights, pool-area lighting or power to an outdoor kitchen, lay conduit before the landscaping and paving go down. Empty conduit costs very little. Trenching through finished gardens and paving costs a lot.
Planning a build or renovation?
Luxe designs and installs architectural lighting across the Sunshine Coast and Brisbane. Book a lighting consultation.
Decisions at rough-in
Rough-in is the stage after framing when cables, switch boxes and recesses go into walls and ceilings before plasterboard. It's the last cheap point to change where things go, so walk through the house with your electrician before it happens.
- Switch positions. Put switches where you walk, on the latch side of doors, and group them sensibly. Think about two-way switching for stairs, hallways and large rooms.
- Driver locations. Every LED strip run and many downlights need a driver. Plan an accessible, ventilated spot for each: a cupboard, a ceiling access hatch or a joinery void, not buried behind plaster.
- Dimming. Decide which circuits dim and make sure the dimmers, drivers and fittings are compatible. Mismatched LED dimming is one of the most common causes of flicker and hum.
- Heavy fittings. Large pendants and chandeliers need blocking in the ceiling. Tell your builder before the ceiling is sheeted.
- Data and power for smart devices. Hubs, gateways and touchscreens need power and often a network point.
Sunshine Coast specifics
A few things are particular to building here.
- Salt air. Homes within a few kilometres of the beach, from Caloundra to Noosa, need outdoor fittings that resist corrosion: 316 marine-grade stainless steel, marine-grade aluminium with a quality finish, or UV-stable polymer, with the right IP rating for each location.
- Humidity. Hot, humid summers are hard on cheap LED strip adhesive and on drivers in enclosed spaces. Aluminium profiles and ventilated driver locations matter.
- Energy rules. The National Construction Code limits the lighting power in new Class 1 homes to 4 W/m² of lit internal floor area (NCC 2022 Part H6). Efficient LED design makes this easy to meet, but a grid of downlights in every room can push you over.
- Acreage and hinterland builds. Properties around Buderim, Palmwoods, Maleny and the Noosa hinterland often have long driveways and outdoor runs. Plan cable sizes and voltage drop for those early.
Your pre-frame lighting checklist
Work through this list with your builder and electrician before frame stage:
- Lighting plan completed and shared with the builder
- Electrical allowance and provisional sums checked against the plan
- Agreement in writing if you're using your own electrician or lighting designer
- Ceiling steps, coves and bulkheads shown on the builder's drawings
- Joinery drawings show LED channels, cable holes and driver cupboards
- Stair lighting method chosen (under-tread strip or wall step lights)
- Smart control decision made: wired system, wireless or none
- Blocking noted for heavy pendants and chandeliers
- Conduits for garden, pool, driveway and outdoor kitchen shown on the site plan
- Outdoor fittings specified for coastal exposure where needed
- Switch and keypad positions marked for the rough-in walk-through
- Colour temperature chosen for the whole house
If you get these twelve things right, the rest of the lighting is about choosing fittings you love.
Frequently asked questions
When should I get a lighting plan for a new build?
Before the building contract is signed if possible, and no later than the frame stage. That's when recesses for LED strip, bulkheads and cabling for smart controls can be added cheaply. After plasterboard goes up, most changes mean cutting and patching.
Can I use my own electrician when building with a volume or custom builder?
Many custom builders allow it if it's agreed in the contract, often as a separate trade or a variation. Volume builders usually don't. Ask before you sign, and get the arrangement for rough-in, fit-off and warranty in writing.
What is electrical rough-in?
Rough-in is the stage after framing when cables, switch and power point boxes, and recesses are installed inside walls and ceilings before plasterboard goes on. It is the last cheap point to change where lights, switches and drivers go.
How much of the build budget should go to lighting?
It varies with the home and the level of finish. A standard builder allowance covers basic downlights and switches; architectural lighting, LED strip and smart control cost more. Get a lighting plan priced alongside your build quote so you can compare.
Do Sunshine Coast homes need special outdoor lighting?
Homes within a few kilometres of the ocean need fittings that resist salt corrosion, such as 316 marine-grade stainless steel or coastal-rated finishes, with the right IP rating for each location. Standard fittings can corrode within a few years.
Get your free lighting quote.
Call 0411 212 528 or request your consultation. Licensed electrical contractor #90549.
